PAO, ANYONE?

A traditional oven fired up for baking bread

The distinct sound of the baker’s horn in Goa is bound to make you smile or feel hungry. As the breadman cycles his rounds, patrons flock to buy their share for the day. It’s a much-needed accompaniment to any meal to soak in gravy or to be eaten with a bhaji.

The journey of the humble bread dates back to the 1520s. Author Fatima Gracias recounts every interesting morsel in her book on Goan cuisine, Cozinha de Goa. In the 1550s, the Jesuits passed on wine and bread-making skills to the locals. Most bakers were from the Christian community in Majorda and Salcete.

The recipe included sur or toddy due to the natural availability in abundance. It gave the bread its distinct taste. However, these days it’s replaced with yeast. The dough is placed in wood fire ovens and ready in no time.

The specialties coming hot off the oven include other crunchy, crispy varieties of bread like kankonn (bangle-shaped hardened bread), polli, undo, and katro.